A More Feminine Face

Techniques and Tips

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My Story I
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The Long Form

        There's a short version and a long version, and I will cover the long version first... It isn't only crossdressers who have problems like blue beard shadow. For centuries, women have had to hide excess facial hair and - sadly - bruises and similar dark marks, by using makeup. Most women wear makeup, that's a fact. Sometimes I hear transgender people complain about how they shouldn't have to wear makeup because none of their women friends do. That's a load of crap and indicates they aren't very observant. Women wear makeup to look more attractive, transgender girls wear makeup because they need to. Complain to god if you don't like it.

        The steps involved are actually fairly simple, but you must follow them carefully. You must also practice them regularly. Applying makeup is just like everything else in that practice makes perfect.

       To begin with, you will need to accumulate the following supplies. I'm going to be brand-specific because I want you to get the right thing, but what you do with the information is up to you.

Finally, a disclaimer: If you haven't tried cosmetics before, there is a very small chance you might be allergic to some of these products. Use them at your own risk. Likewise, if you get caught by someone you didn't want to know about this, that is your problem too. I'm just passing along information from a real makeup artist for you to do with as you will.

  1. Concealer. I recommend DermaBlend, which can be found at any JC Penny store (their official outlet) or at better cosmetic stores everywhere, such as The Bon. Dermablend comes in "Chroma number" - Chroma 1 is a light beige, Chroma 2 is a medium beige. Their numbering system gets a bit complicated (see below) - If you cannot find Dermablend, us Pan-Stik as your concealer, which is available everywhere, or shop online (See below).

  2. Cheap RED Lipstick. You won't be using this on your lips. A good one is "Wet And Wild" in the shade "535A." You can see the displays of Wet and Wild lipsticks in little racks at the ends of cosmetic aisles in most drug stores.

  3. Foundation. I have a few choices you might want to consider:
    • Revlon ColorStay. This stuff really has staying power. Once it dries (in about 60 seconds) it won't come off till you scrub it off with facial cleanser.
    • Max Factor Lasting Performance. This is fairly opaque and tends to stay on well.
    • Almay Sports Formula Tint. This only comes in three shades ("Light" will work for most of you) but it has the advantage of being sweat-proof. Scrubs off with soap and water. This is the one I use most.
    • Revson's Ultimate II Ultimate Coverage. This is the most opaque of all the items in this list and is recommended for problem faces.

  4. Loose Face Powder. Coty "Translucent Medium" will work for most of you. Be sure to pick up a good powder brush too! :)

  5. Max Factor "Pan Stik." Some of you will need this. We will use this if you have a serious problem with dark facial hair shadows even after shaving.

  6. A nice Lipstick (this one is for your lips).

        Once you have assembled your supplies, we can get started!

  • Start with a clean-shaven face. I know that should go without saying, but it is very important. Use a good double bladed razor like Gillette Sensor Excel. If you are using an electric, it is time to convert! Wet face thoroughly and use a facial scrub sponge (the rough side) to losen hairs. Use a good Gel shave cream and shave carefully.

  • Make sure your face is completely dry. If necessary, use an astringent such as Witch Hazel to make sure you have removed all oils from the surface of your face.

  • Start with your concealer. Put a few dabs on your cheek and blend thoroughly with your fingers, using circular strokes. This, as with all makeup items, should be a thin coating. Continue to cover the entire beard area in this same manner - one section of face at a time. Like every technique you see here, this takes practice.. lots of practice.

  • Take the cheap lipstick ("Wet and Wild") and dot your face lightly over the beard area. It will look a little like a case of the measles. Blend this into the Concealer with your fingers. When done, you should have a slight sunburned look to your face over the beard area. If it is too red then you over did it and will need to put a bit more concealer on to even out the color. This is not a joke. The secret is that the red of the lipstick cancels out the bluishness of beard shadow. Women have used this trick to hide bruises and such for many many years. It works.

  • (Optional). Pan Stik. If you have a bad problem with blue shadows even after shaving, you will want to apply Pan Stik at this point. Make several streaks with the stick over your beard area and blend with your fingers to an even coloration. If you use this step, you will now need to wait about 5 minutes for the Pan Stik to "set" before moving on to the next step. If not go directly to applying foundation.

    At this point you shouldn't have any blueness from your beard showing through. If not, keep working at it, it just takes some practice.

  • Apply liquid foundation. Again, dot lightly on one section of your face and blend with your fingers to obtain an even color. Don't overdo it. This will give your skin an even, natural tone... assuming you selected the right shade to start with. Wait a few minutes for your foundation to set before proceeding.

  • Optional Apply loose powder. Powder takes off the shine from your skin and "locks in" the makeup you have applied. Do NOT omit this step! Dot powder on your face with powder brush and blend in to an even texture.

  • Apply lipstick to your lips according to your desires.

  • At this point you may choose to apply mascara, shadow, or whatever you enjoy.

       There you have it! You now know how to make yourself more beautiful, and more feminine! This is the "bare-bones" of getting a feminine-appearing face. If you don't get it right the first time just remember that you will get better with practice. It will work once you get the hang of it.

Short Course

a completely opaque product is Dermablend. You can buy this product at better cosmetic stores or directly from Dermablend.com.

It's a little confusing: Dermablend comes in "Chroma" shades. According to the people at Dermablend (now owned by Revlon), Chroma 1 is exactly one shade lighter than Chroma 2, and both are for skins with pink undertones. But Chroma 1 2/3, which you might think is lighter than Chroma 2, is really darker. I don't know why, you have to figure out what works for you. Chroma 2 reminds me of Revlon Colorstay Natural Beige but about half a shade DARKER.

In order to make a cover creme this opaque, you have to use an oil base makeup, like theatrical makeup, so you must use setting powder or it won't work. Dermablend's own setting powder might be the best choice, but it is also pretty expensive. Regular loose powder will work, although it may not last quite as long.

Apply Dermablend with your fingers: Gently swirll around the surface of the Dermablend cup to melt a little bit onto your fingers, then swish it lightly on your face. Do small patches at a time and keep moving. When you have a complete cover, put the powder on VERY heavily and let it set for about 3 minutes. This is important. While you are waiting you can do your eyeliner and eye shadow. Then you can use a powder brush to swish off the excess powder. Follow up with your blush.

Dermablend says their makeup can last up to 18 hours without refreshing but if you are going to be in any humidity I'd strongly suggest ordering their little compressed powder compact in addition to loose powder - to freshen up. Oil based makeup looks very shiny if it gets damp, although more powder always solves this problem.

signed, Chriss Pagani

    PS - A NOTE: Instead of stealing this information and reposting it to YOUR web site, why don't you just link here? I've spent a lot of years helping other girls - many many other girls and I get slightly annoyed when I see my years of practical experience stolen and copied word for word as if someone ELSE worked out all these details. Thank-you.


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